Best derma rollers and how to use them at home

2022-05-14 07:51:19 By : Mr. Yunxiang Zhong

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Here's how to roll your way to better skin...

If you’d have told us a few years ago that a miniature roller with tiny needles attached to it would be good for our skin, we probably wouldn't have believed you. However, derma rolling has become the latest DIY beauty trend for tackling a whole bunch of skin woes.

While microneedling is the term used for in-clinic treatments (more on that later), derma rolling is the DIY equivalent, so you can replicate some of the benefits of the treatment from your very own bathroom.

Interested? We've asked the experts all the questions so you’re fully clued up before picking up a derma roller.

The two terms are usually used interchangeably, and while the benefits are the same, there is a key difference. Aesthetic Doctor, Dr Parisha Acharya, explains:

"Microneedling is a treatment that is performed in clinic using small needles to create micro-trauma that helps induce a reparative collagen response. There are many benefits, including an improvement in skin quality, reduction in scarring and overall anti-ageing.

“Derma-rolling is usually performed at home and generally uses tiny pins to help penetrate serums into the surface layer of the skin, helping to enhance their performance somewhat.

“The biggest difference between the two is the depth of needle and antiseptic technique used in clinic. Derma rollers tend to be around 0.2-0.3mm, whereas microneedling devices can be anything from 2.5mm."

As derma rollers have smaller needles, you won’t see as much of a difference to your skin as you would from an in-clinic microneedling treatment, but the DIY option is a more accessible (and less spenny!) way of improving skin - it just might take a bit longer to see results.

GP and Clinical Dermatology Expert, Dr Sonia Khrana, explains:

"Microneedling is used to improve the tone and texture of the skin and improve scars and stretch marks by creating a response with mechanical trauma (the pinpricks). Fibroblast (the cells in your skin that facilitate the healing process) activity is increased, thus improving collagen production [which] helps with scarring and improves the overall texture of your skin. It also results in a plumped and more youthful appearance."

Khrana adds that while "at-home devices won’t give you as dramatic results as clinic treatments, they still do work. They have much shorter needles so they don’t penetrate as deep, and can be a lot gentler, to reduce the risk of an injury."

The good news is that, unlike some treatments, derma rollers can be used on all skin types and tones, but Khrana notes when to avoid them:

"Those with chronic inflammatory skin conditions (such as acne, eczema and psoriasis) should avoid the procedure whilst their condition is active, as the treatment may exacerbate them."

There should be no side effects to derma rolling at home either, apart from a little post-treatment redness initially. This should go down quickly, though.

Skin will likely be sensitive (especially after the first couple of sessions), so it will need a little TLC.

Avoid actives such as retinol and AHAs immediately after derma rolling, and don't forget to apply your SPF. If you can, also avoid applying heavy make-up for the following few days.

"Using skincare that isn’t formulated to be used on wounded skin/compromised skin can cause skin reactions and sometimes even an immune reaction, which forms granulomas (lumps under the skin),” warns Dr Khrana.

Stick to nourishing and hydrating ingredients, such as your trusted hyaluronic acid.

We tasked 92 beauty testers to try a range of at-home derma roller tools, to see which ones really delivered results.

Over eight weeks, they noted whether they saw a difference in pore size, scarring, hyperpigmentation and fine line, as well as whether skin looked brighter, firmer and clearer.

Meanwhile, we also used a VISIA complexion analyser to assess testers' skin after four and eight weeks of using each derma roller. The tool recorded any improvements in brown spots, wrinkles, pores and overall skin texture.

If you're not sure where to start with derma rolling, this kit has got you covered. It comes with all the skincare you'd need for the days that follow, while the device itself also comes with an LED red light therapy option (to help reduce inflammation and improve circulation).

It was voted the best device of the bunch for minimising the look of pores, while also being pain-free in use. It left our panel with softer, smoother and brighter skin, with nearly all saying wrinkles appeared less prominent, too.

Key specs Length of needle (mm): 0.3 What's in the box: GloPRO tool, face attachment, pH balancing gel cleanser, Vitamin C facial moisturiser, Nightly Retinol + Peptide Anti-Ageing serum, 5 x clarifying prep pads, 2 x AAA batteries, sanitising spritzer container (empty, should be filled with 70% or higher isopropyl alcohol).

If you've become slightly obsessed with watching before and after facial massage videos on Insta, you'll have come across FACE GYM. Several celebs – Daisy Edgar Jones and Jessica Biel to name just two – swear by their "facial workouts" before red carpets, and our testers can see why.

Their at-home microneedling tool left almost everyone with firmer, more toned skin, with complexions free from breakouts and looking glowy.

Scarring improved too, while wrinkles looked less obvious after the eight-week trial. It's no surprise then, that the majority of our panel said they'd keep using it in the future. *Adds to basket immediately*

Key specs Length of needle (mm): 0.25 What's in the box: 4 x treatment roller heads, one handle

Dealing with needles is a task in itself and should always be done with a cautious hand. This derma roller was almost fool-proof, with all testers saying it manoeuvred across the contours of the face with ease.

It was pain-free for the majority too, with no-one experiencing any redness or irritation. It scored great marks in our lab test for addressing an array of concerns, with our testers loving how little they noticed wrinkles after use.

Key specs Length of needle (mm): 0.5 What's in the box: Skin roller handle, 0.5mm needle head, sanitising spray

This derma roller features some of the teeniest needles on our list (0.25mm to be exact), making it a great place to start if you’re new to derma rolling. Testers saw fewer breakouts after use, leaving more toned, smoother skin behind.

Pigmentation and brown spots were also less prominent, while the device itself rolled over skin easily, without causing irritation for most. The head is small, which makes it a great option for those looking for a more targeted treatment, but not for those who are always in a rush.

Key specs Length of needle (mm): 0.25 What's in the box: Tool

This tool features some of the biggest needles in our test (0.5mm), so look here if you’re more experienced with this type of treatment. It is, however, a great bargain option and left most testers with clearer, more radiant skin.

One tester raved about their breakouts and blackheads coming to a halt after use, while most said scarring also appeared reduced. There was no long-lasting irritation or redness either.

Key specs Length of needle (mm): 0.5 What's in the box: Tool

If you've conquered acne (go you!) but are left with the aftermath of uneven skin texture, give this one a go. Testers found it helped smooth out any texture irregularities, to leave skin looking softer and smoother.

It helped tackle enlarged pores too, while many said it had a "renewing" effect on skin. It also comes with a handy case, which not only makes it easier to travel with, but also keeps any germs at bay.

Key specs Length of needle (mm): 0.3 What's in the box: Tool, 50ml sanitising spray, clean & treat tonic spray, protective storage case