DIY skin care is convenient, but whether pricey tools are worth your time and money is up for debate.

Beauty fads come and go. Some of them are silly, some are helpful, and a few are downright dangerous. Among all the lists of what’s hot and not, it’s easy to get lost in the details and lose sight of the long-term macro trends that mark a significant cultural shift.

One of those big changes is that the general public is becoming more aware of the importance of taking a holistic approach to skin care. That means people are recognizing that good, clear skin is a reflection of overall wellness. As beauty begins to take more cues from the world of science and medicine, a new generation of devices is harnessing the power of technology and promising results at home.

But as Rachel Nazarian, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, notes, while many trendy new devices will deliver some benefits, they may not be as impactful or safe as their medical-grade counterparts.

That doesn’t mean they aren’t beneficial, though. “While not as effective as professional treatments, these devices can be used in place of them for those who cannot make it to the office or for those who cannot afford the cost,” says Joshua Zeichner, MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. “They’re also a great option to use between professional treatments as maintenance care for your skin.”

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Here’s a closer look at some of the most popular home skin-care devices, and intel from experts and medical literature on what has the potential to work — and what you’re better off skipping.

Dermaplaning is the process of using a sharp blade to gently remove the thin, small hairs from the face to give you smoother, softer skin that better absorbs your skin-care products. This dermatologic procedure requires continuous maintenance, Dr. Nazarian says, but with the Dermaflash Luxe device, you can give yourself the treatment with more convenience.

The Dermaflash Luxe is about the size of a vape pen, but it has a cool twisted shape. Before using it, wash your skin with the brand’s Preflash cleanser, then gently rub the device over your face in a feathering motion. Next, massage your face with the Postflash cream. In an instant, stray hairs are gone.

The benefits don’t end with hair removal, Nazarian says. “Using a blade to scrape the top layer of skin is a form of physical exfoliation that can leave skin looking younger. Additionally, removing the top layer of dead skin through physical exfoliation, and removing the layer of fine hairs, will allow for better product penetration of all your creams,” she explains.

Just remember that shaving hair can come with drawbacks. “Hair thins naturally the longer you’ve had it, due to the normal wear and tear on the follicle,” Nazarian says. “One downside of dermaplaning is those gentle little peach fuzz hairs are going to grow back as thicker looking bristles,” since they haven’t worn down or thinned out yet.

Also, if you have active acne, eczema, or rosacea, be careful and check with your dermatologist before trying this or any device.

Nazarian furthermore suggests avoiding areas of active inflammation and always moisturizing afterward to keep skin healthy and strong because the blade can irritate sensitive skin.

Try Dermaflash Luxe, $199.85, Dermaflash.com.

This device is studded with 24 massaging stones that you’ll use to gently massage your face, neck, arms, chest, and legs. Its makers promise that it will “energize, enhance, revive, and uplift your skin.” Sounds great. But does it work?

“This tool is essentially a massaging tool, albeit an incredibly basic one,” says Nazarian. “The benefit is that it enhances lymphatic drainage, making you look temporarily less puffy, especially in areas where fluid tends to accumulate, such as around the eyes.”

Research on lymphatic drainage is limited, but a small study suggests it may be an effective treatment for uneven skin in people with cellulite, for example.

Nurse Jamie touts the device as great for “tech neck” — the soreness that, for many people, is all too familiar after too much screen time.

Unless you have sensitive skin, using this device as a gentle skin massager isn’t risky for most people. Those with a rare condition — such as pressure urticaria or dermatographism, for example — would need to use this device with caution.

Perhaps the most major risk of buying this device is having high expectations that won’t be met. Nazarian notes that it’s unlikely to offer noticeable, lasting results.

Try Nurse Jamie Uplift Massaging Beauty Roller, $69, Amazon.com.

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According to Kline, a global market research company that tracks beauty trends, body treatments and at-home beauty tech are expected to surge in the years to come.

Enter the microcurrent body device NuBody. You use it to deliver a gentle flow of targeted microcurrent to your upper arms, abs, buttocks, and thighs to reduce the appearance of dimpled or uneven skin. Dr. Zeichner says the device is safe for all skin types, but it works best when used on younger skin at the first sign of skin laxity.

Nazarian says that anyone with a medical implant should approach this device with caution. She adds that the benefits of microcurrent and massage are not well documented in medical literature. “Some studies have shown it may optimize the anti-aging pathways in the skin, which may help improve wrinkles and tissue laxity, or sagging,” she says.

According to a small study published in Life Science Journal, 70 percent of women who underwent three microcurrent treatments to reduce wrinkles reported being satisfied with the results. Researchers reported that microcurrents may help blood circulate faster and stimulate collagen production, which strengthens the foundation of the skin. That said, the study findings are limited because the research included only 30 women, was observational, and lasted only one month.

If you can afford the device, keep in mind that improvement may be subtle. But if you’re committed to regular use at home, you may see some long-term benefits, Nazarian adds.

Try NuFace NuBody, $399, MyNuFace.com.

Microneedling is a procedure that “creates tiny holes or channels in the dermis, or top layer of the epidermis, when done superficially at home,” says Tsippora Shainhouse, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Beverly Hills, California. “The body responds to these wounds by creating new collagen to fill them in, which over time can help thicken and strengthen the dermis, giving it a more youthful appearance.” Collagen production declines with age, research has shown.

The results of microneedling can include improvements in skin laxity, fine lines and wrinkles, and uneven texture, according to a small study published in August 2018 in The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, which studied microneedling effects in women ages 35 to 75.

According to the makers of GloPro, the device’s patented technology emits red light while microneedles punch microscopic holes in the skin. In addition to offering the benefits of microneedling, proponents of GloPro say that it can enhance the absorption of skin-care products.

The risks are minimal, but Ava Shamban, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Santa Monica, California, warns that if you use the GloPro over makeup without cleaning your face first, you may end up with an “inadvertent tattoo,” she says. She adds that anyone with active acne, eczema, psoriasis, a skin infection, or another underlying skin disease should avoid it.

Also, don’t expect this home microneedling device to deliver the same results you’d get from your dermatologist. “Microneedling is a tried-and-true, minimally invasive procedure designed to improve skin quality,” Dr. Shamban says. “At-home versions penetrate much more superficially but benefit the skin as they initiate a cascade of tissue remodeling. They just need to be used on a weekly or biweekly time frame.”

Try BeautyBio GloPro Facial Microneedling Tool, $199, BeautyBio.com.

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LightStim MultiWave LED light therapy is an at-home device that emits UV-free light energy that promises visibly improved, radiant, healthy-looking skin. Each LightStim product uses different wavelengths, or colors of light. By applying the light directly to the skin, LightStim is said to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, temporarily increase blood circulation, and treat mild to moderate acne. “Blue light provides antimicrobial benefits, lowering levels of acne-causing bacteria, while red light is anti-inflammatory,” says Zeichner. “The combination can help treat acne.”

The risks, however, may not make the efforts worthwhile. Zeichner cautions that extended exposure to blue light can contribute to hyperpigmentation and that it’s really only suitable for mild acne. “While it may be of some benefit to red, angry pimples, it is more likely to help if you just have some blackheads or whiteheads,” says Zeichner. “If you suffer from severe acne or scarring, you should not rely on a treatment like this and should visit a board-certified dermatologist for evaluation.”

Also, a study published in October 2019 in Aging and Mechanisms of Disease found that in flies, daily blue light exposure damaged the insects’ brain and eye cells, and shortened their life span. Another study, published in July 2017 in Free Radical Biology and Medicine, suggested that blue light accelerated skin aging in lab models of human and rodent skin.

More research in humans is needed, but at this time, some dermatologists, including Nazarian, aren’t recommending LED light therapy given the potential risks.

Moral of the story: This device might help treat mild acne, but check with your dermatologist to make sure it’s the right fit for your skin-care needs.

Try LightStim MultiWave, $169, Sephora.com.

With the Personal Microderm Classic, PMD Beauty promises to help regenerate skin cells more quickly than they naturally would. The device uses spinning discs embedded with aluminum oxide crystals to exfoliate cells from the surface of the skin. The idea is that by removing this dead skin cell barrier, new cell growth is stimulated. The device also uses suction to increase circulation and triggers the skin’s natural healing process to boost collagen and elastin. A study found that microdermabrasion can improve skin contour and allow for skin-care products to seep in deeper, but it has minimal effects on pigmentation issues and acne.

Baton Rouge, Louisiana–based plastic surgeon John Williams, MD, echoes that warning. “The proposed benefits of reducing dark spots and large pores will, in all probability, not happen with this device,” says Dr. Williams. He also doubts that the Personal Microderm Classic can deliver any significant improvement of fine lines or wrinkles.

But there may be some perks still. “By removing the superficial skin layer, it may stimulate the skin to have a smoother, brighter, and more radiant appearance,” he says.

He advises that people with melasma avoid this device because it could increase pigmentation.

Nazarian adds that because this device temporarily increases inflammation, people with rosacea and active acne should also avoid it because it can increase the risk of scarring.

Try PMD Beauty Personal Microderm Classic, $159, PMDBeauty.com.

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For serious gadget heads, the Luna 3 is a Bluetooth-enabled facial massage and cleansing device. You navigate the Luna 3 with an app that guides you through a 60-second cleanse. It promises a gentle and relaxing experience, and smooth, glowing skin. The massager promotes circulation in your face, while the silicone bristles help exfoliate the skin, which may help your skin-care products penetrate more efficiently.

After downloading Foreo for You, the companion app, dampen your face, apply your favorite cleanser, and hit the start button twice. Then you glide the device over your face until it automatically shuts off after 60 seconds. Pat your face dry and continue with your skin-care routine.

“This silicone-covered cleansing device provides sonic causation to give a gentle, deep clean to the skin,” says Zeichner. “Besides a deep cleanse, the massaging aspect of the device may enhance circulation and the delivery of oxygen and nutrients to the skin.”

The Luna 3 is safe for all skin types, but according to Zeichner, there’s no real science to prove that the Luna 3 is superior to good old-fashioned soap and water.

Try Foreo Luna 3, $199, Foreo.com.

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